Usual Suspects Head for Casablanca

Eva Melanson, right, Liz Ferrell and two other friends have traveled together to Europe. Now they're planning a 10-day trip to Morocco, camels and all. (By Jay Premack For The Washington Post)

From Casablanca on the coast, the train to Marrakech takes three hours. (By Eve Coulon -- Bloomberg News)

Sunday, January 13, 2008; Page P06

WHO: Eva Melanson, 63, of Waldorf, and three female friends.

DREAM TRIP: Morocco.

BACKGROUND: The quartet, whose ages range from 58 to 64, have taken an annual trip to Europe the past four years. Next fall, they wish to travel to Morocco. They'd like their 10-day itinerary to include Marrakech and/or Casablanca and, of course, a camel ride. Melanson's budget is $3,000, but she won't complain if it's less.

OUR SUGGESTIONS: Fly Air Maroc from Washington (connecting in New York's JFK) to Casablanca, where you should plan a full day of activities. Organize a tour ahead of time;
the District-based Casablanca Travel and Tours (202-337-,0800
http://www.arabwebsite.com/Casablanca.html) offers a full-day outing with lunch for $85 each or provides a car and driver for $160 total -- or hail a cab from place to place.

DAY 1: Divide your time between La Corniche, an esplanade with golden strands and oceanside cafes; the Ain Diab neighborhood, rife with supremely fresh seafood restaurants; Mohammed V Square, which contains the Mahakama Law Courts and the Habous Quarter; and Boulevard Muhammad V, which is lined with boutiques, standout architecture and the Marche Central, a jumble of souks selling everything from turtles to genie-style leather shoes. In addition, non-Muslims can take a guided tour of the Hassan II Mosque, second in size only to Mecca. For a "Casablanca" fix, grab a snack and souvenir at Rick's Cafe (248 Blvd. Sour Jdid), a Bogart-themed Planet Hollywood of sorts.

Overnight near the Casa Voyageurs train depot, so you won't have to stumble far to catch the train to Marrakech the next day. The Ibis Moussafir Casablanca (Boulevard Bahmad Place de la Gare Casa, 011-212-22-401984, http://www.ibishotel.com) is a well-regarded chain steps from the station. Rooms start at $58 a night, including breakfast.

DAYS 2-4: The train to Marrakech has about nine departures daily, so don't fret if you sleep through the first few. The ride takes just over three hours and costs $16 for first class. (Hassan Samrhouni of Casablanca Tours urges travelers to spend the extra bucks for first class and to avoid the train over the holidays.) Info: http://www.oncf.ma/voyages/offre-trains.htm.

In Marrakech, don't go express; instead, spend a leisurely two or three days exploring this crazy quilt of a city. The heart of Marrakech lies in Jemaa-el-Fna (Place of the Dead), a market square that transforms daily into a circus of snake charmers, monkey handlers, fortunetellers and food venders. Restaurants and shops ring the plaza, and cafes with rooftop decks provide guests with mint tea, petits fours and aerial views.

After a pick-me-up coffee, wander the old medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its souks, artisan workshops and monuments. Drop in at rug shops and discuss Berber patterns over mint tea, or snack on pastries sold from mobile kitchens. You may want to hire a guide (ask at your hotel) for the medina portion, or leave behind a trail of dates.

If you thought Versailles was overdecorated, check out the designs at such opulent palaces as El Bahia and El Badia, next door to the Saadian Tombs (also worth a peek). For flowers, Islamic art and a bucket soak, head to Le Jardin Majorelle, which includes the Museum Majorelle and is near a popular hammam, or public bathhouse. And, bien sur, don't leave out the mosques, such as the city's largest, Koutoubia Mosque; only Muslims can enter the holy building, but its minaret and intricate exterior are equally uplifting.

For accommodations, spend your nights in a riad, a traditional Moroccan house with an interior garden. The properties vary in price, with some starting as low as $53 a night. For options, see such booking sites as http://www.riadsmorocco.com and http://www.riads-marrakech.net.

DAYS 5-9: From Marrakech, you can sign up for a full-day camel excursion to the Sahara, but then you'd miss out on the Berber villages, gorges, cedar forests draped with apes, etc. A better option is to take a four-day tour from Marrakech to Fez that pairs the sunset camel trek in Erg Chebbi at Merzouga with such sights as the Kasbah Ait Benhaddou, Rose Valley and more. Many operators organize this type of excursion, such as Authentic Morocco (011-44-845-0944-725, http://www.authentic-morocco.com; from $412 per person) and Morocco Explored (604-393-3715, http://www.moroccoexplored.com/2-moroccocameltreks.html; $507 per person based on four guests). Besides meals, transportation, camel, etc., the price also includes an overnight in a nomadic camel-hair tent-- or a hotel room if you don't sleep well on sand.

DAYS 10-11: The Moroccan capital of Fez is one of the country's marquee cities. It is home to the oldest and largest medieval city in the world, and its medina (also a UNESCO World Heritage Site) out-cities its main urban center. Besides visiting the usual dried-fruit sellers, weavers and silversmith shops, test your stomach at the pungent tannery near the Karaouine Mosque. Of course, don't ignore the "new" city, Fes el Jadid, which dates from the Middle Ages and contains the Jewish quarter and the Royal Palace. (Like Marrakech, you can hire a guide for the day or do it on your own by cab; ask at your hotel for recommendations.)

For lodging, spend your night in the frenzy of Fez. The Jnane Palace (Avenue Ahmed Chaouki, 011-212-37-6692-17, http://www.sogatour.ma/web_eng/jnanpalace.html) is a five-star property with a Moroccan restaurant, tea salon and shuttle to the Royal Golf de Fez, an 18-hole course. Rates from $120 through Orbitz. You can also opt for a riad; check the listings at RiadsMorocco.com (011-33-1-42-08-1833, http://www.riadsmorocco.com). Riad Zamane ( http://www.riadzamane.com), for instance, is an elegant home in the old city, with rooms from $130 a night.

DAY 12: On your last day, take a break from city life and taxi over to the nearby spa town of Moulay Yacoub, replete with thermal baths, pools and a hammam. A good, long soak will make the four-hour train trip ($20) back to Casablanca -- and the seven-hour flight home -- that much more enjoyable.

SPLURGE: In Marrakech, indulge your appetite and wallet with a traditional Moroccan feast, where you will be lavished with food, drink, belly dancers and music. Le Tobsil (22 Derb Moulay Abdallah ben Hezzaien, Ksour-R'mila; $76 each) comes highly recommended; a flashier option is Chez Ali (011-212-2430-7730, http://www.ilove-marrakesh.com/chezali), a "Fantasia" show outside the city with tented dining rooms, tribal performers, a fanciful horse show and fireworks; $50 per person.

If you prefer to be your own mini-master in the Moroccan kitchen, try a one-day cooking class in Fez. Lahcen's Moroccan Cooking (011-212-15-8661-44, http://www.fescooking.com) takes guests on a souk shopping trip, then teaches them how to prepare a three-course meal in a riad, with entrees including such classics as tagine and pastilla (no pigeon-trapping required). Cost: about $40 per person for groups of two or more, plus about $13 more for ingredients.

TOTAL COST: Through Casablanca Travel and Tours, the Air Maroc flight costs about $650 round trip from New York's JFK; add about $150 to fly from Washington. The four-day camel trek costs about $400 to $500. Staying in midrange lodging, expect to pay about $480 total. Train travel is $36. Total cost for the trip, not including food, tips, incidentals and splurges: about $1,800 per person.

-- Andrea Sachs , Washington Post

We would like to put into words a very truthful thanks for the function that you have organized for us to promote our beloved country of Morocco as a safe and affordable destination, which took place on Wednesday, August 20, 2003, in Washington DC.

We congratulate you for a job well done, as well as, your ideal choice of speakers and participants who honored your invitation.

A promotional reception of this competence, should be constant , in order to endorse our destination,

by Helen Broadus

Our congratulations to Mr. Hassan Samrhouni, President of Casablanca Travel and Tours for the highly successful reception featuring Morocco: "A Safe and Affordable Destination" on Wednesday, August 20, 2003 from 6:30 pm-8:30 pm. This reception was held at the Twist Restaurant, located in Georgetown at 3011 M Street, N.W. (same block as the historical Stone House) in Washington, D.C. The purpose of the reception was to highlight news and information about the travel and tourism industry of Morocco, with an emphasis on the fact that it is a safe and affordable destination. Several distinguished guests that spoke at the reception included Mr. Hassan Hami, Charges d'Affairs at the Embassy of Morocco in Washington, D.C., Mr. Abderrahim Beyyoudh, Deputy Consulate of Morocco in New York, Mr. Abdelhamid Boumadiene, Director of Morocco Tourism based in New York, Dr. Yahuda Lukacs, Director, Center for Global Education at George Mason University and Mr. Tim Resch, President of Friends of Morocco.

More than 100 individuals representing tour operators, travel professionals, travel educators, and individuals who are interested in learning more about Morocco as well as considering visiting Morocco participated. There was plenty of delicious Moroccan food, refreshing drinks and live entertainment provided by a fantastic belly dancer. Special thanks to Venue International Professionals, Inc. for coordinating the event as well as to the DC Chamber of Commerce's International Trade Committee, the Africa International Trading Center Association, and the Africa Travel Association for assisting with the great turnout of participants. According to Ms. Helen C. Broadus, President of Venue International Professionals, Inc. and Chairperson of the Education and Training Committee of the Africa Travel Association, this event was a great start toward furthering the awareness of Morocco as a safe and affordable destination to the North American tourist market. Moreover, she stated that Mr. Hassan Samrhouni, President of Casablanca Travel and Tours will be collaborating with VIP on a Destination Specialist Certification Program for Morocco scheduled to commence in mid-October 2003.

Morocco, North Africa is home of the continent's oldest monarchy and is one of Africa's main tourist destinations, bringing in more than 3.3 million tourist representing an estimated 1.8 billion in foreign currency in the year 2000. Morocco, while blessed with very beautiful beaches, is most famous for the world renowned marvels of art and history represented by its Imperial Cities of Fes, Meknes, Marrakech and Rabat. The Kingdom of Morocco is located in Northern Africa, bordering the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Morocco is slightly larger than California, with a similar lengthy coastline (3,500 km) and separated from Europe by the Straits of Gibraltar. Interestingly, the link between Africa and Europe could be finally completed by the construction of a gigantic viaduct across the Straits of Gibraltar. This bridge will start from Cape Malabat to the east of Tangier and reach the southern coast of Spain at Cape Paloma. This engineering feat would enable 10-15 million passengers to cross annually, along with 2 million vehicles and 5 million tons of freight. This would definitely speed up the union between Morocco and the European Union. Morocco received its independence from France on March 2, 1956 and has a population of more than 30 million with Rabat as the official capital. Casablanca, the economic capital of Morocco has the largest port of the Maghreb (North African) nations and was modeled after the seaport in Marseille, France.

Casablanca is a very cosmopolitan city with both "old world charm and new world pleasures". While Arabic is the official language, French is often the language of business, government and diplomacy. English is also widely spoken and many American and European tourists visit Morocco for vacation and/or business purposes all year round. There are four Imperial Cities in Morocco: Fees, Marrakech, Rabat, and Meknes. Fees, the oldest of the Imperial Cities, is often described as the "spiritual and cultural center" of Morocco. As the kingdom's original capital (808 A.D.), Fees is known as the most Imperial City of them all in Morocco. Marrakech, the second oldest of the Imperial Cities founded in the 11th century, was twice the capital of Morocco. Marrakech's often called the "voluptuous city" and is full of many historical sites as well as exquisite shopping bazaars. It is a scenic city of ochre colors spread out in a huge palm grove set against the background of the snow covered Atlas Mountains. The first thing that strikes you upon visiting Marrakech is that everything is pink - from the ancient castled ramparts around the old town, the town buildings within, and the modern buildings in the new quarter are all in varying shades of the same color. Interesting sites include the venerable Monument of Koutoubia, known as the masterpiece of Almohades Art and the richly decorated rooms of the Saadian Tombs. Also not to be missed is the Bahia Palace which is built in Andalucian style. It is built around a large central courtyard with gracious colonnades, fountains and a green and white mosaic floor patio which creates an effect of infinite coolness on hot summer days. Also, there is the enormous Djemaa El Fna Square, which abounds with storytellers, soothsayers, snake charmers, acrobats and vendors of mystic potions as well as local people squatting around the ever present tea kettles producing the fragrance of fresh Mint Tea. A short driving distance away, one can take an excursion to the Ourika Valley to visit the Berber Souks and Jewish Shrines. Rabat, also known as the "Garden City" is the administrative capital of Morocco and the third oldest of the Imperial Cities. In many ways, Rabat is a traditional yet modern and elegant city, with wide and harmonious boulevards with trees, flowers, gardens and luxurious boutiques. Interesting sites include the Royal Palace and Hassan Tower, an impressive masterpiece of Almohades architecture. This unfinished Minaret, contemporary with Giralda of Seville and the Koutoubia of Marrakech, is part of a Mosque that was intended to hold the entire Moorish army for worship. Also, see the exquisite craftsmanship of the Mohamed V Mausoleum, raised in tribute to Morocco's contemporary king and liberator. Meknes, the youngest of the Imperial Cities, is famous for its picturesque and exotic souks (markets) with colorful displays of foods, handicrafts and textiles. The former seat of government, it is the fourth of the Imperial Cities and was built by the 17th century Sultan Mulay Ismael, founder of Meknes and contemporary of Louis XIV of France whose grandiose building scheme he imitated. Interesting sites include the monument gateway Bab El Mansour, the Palace Tombs of Mulay Ismael (the only Mosque in which non-Muslim visitors are allowed to enter), and the ruins of the vast imperial stables which were capable of stabling 12,000 horses. Within a short driving distance of Meknes is Volubilis, the most important Roman ruins in all of Morocco. Volubilis was the former capital of the Roman province of Mauritania Tingitana, home of Mark Anthony and Cleopatra's daughter Sylene, who married Berber King Juba II. Visit the Olive Press, the House of Orpheus, the Basilica, the Baths of Gallienne, the Forum, the Triumphant Arch of Caracalla, and the House of Venus. In 1997, this rich legacy won Volubilis the classification as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Also nearby is the holy city of Moulay Idriss, founded in the early 8th century.

About the Author: Helen C. Broadus is the President of Venue International Professionals, Inc. (VIP) - an African-American owned full service travel and tourism company based in the Washington Metropolitan Area. VIP specializes in providing escorted and customized travel and tourism packages for individuals and groups interested in visiting the African continent. She is also the Executive Secretary of the Board of Directors of the Africa Travel Association (ATA) and has conducted numerous travel and tourism programs to twenty-five countries in Africa over the past ten years. For more information about the Destination Training Certificate Program for Morocco, please contact her at: mailto:vipinc@erols.com

***

Feb 2, 2004
Dear Hassan,

Many thanks for putting together such an extraordinary and most rewarding trip for our group in Morocco. I gave you very short notice but you were able to accommodate every need and request we had, and did so with the highest standards of professional courtesy and service.

The president of my university, her husband, the dean of my college, and I were royally treated everywhere we went. The driver who met us with the new and well-kept Mercedes van was friendly, careful, and extremely considerate. He spoke very good English and was an excellent resource throughout our travels. The hotels you booked for us in Marrakech, Rabat, and Tangier were excellent choices--not only did they meet the highest standards of luxury and comfort, but they were also perfectly located.

Thanks to your expert planning, my colleagues had a great time in Morocco. They enjoyed every single moment of the trip, whether it was walking through the souks of the medina, dining in the finest restaurants, or watching a fantasia show. We also managed to do our business quite successfully.

And so your promise was fulfilled: My colleagues did fall in love with Morocco because of your careful planning, and even I who was born in Morocco came out with even more pride for the country that nurtured me.

I can't think of a better Morocco specialist to recommend to my colleagues, friends, and even other fellow Moroccans.

Sincerely,

Professor Anouar Majid

Chair

Department of English

University of New England

Maine, USA

***

March 2003

Hi Hassan,

We had a great time in Morocco the last two weeks. Thanks for your help and that of your Casablanca office. The hotels were nice and the car worked very well. The entire trip exceeded my expectations. I will definitely recommend you to friends.

thanks again
Scott Taylor

P.S.. After 20 years my Arabic came back and my peace corps project (building fish ponds in Beni Mellal) expanded from my 5 to 30 ponds and is a big success.

***

From: Ken Roy, Abidjan, Ivory coast, December January 2 , 2003

Dear Hassan,

Just to let you know that we all had a wonderful time on our visit to Morocco. Our guide Rashid was excellent and also a very good driver. Keep him working as much as possible-he is very good for your business!

From : Joan P. McElmurrary, Executive director, Virginia Funeral Directors Association

How to visit the locations of last year's most "travel inspiring" films

Usual Suspects Head for Casablanca